Applesauce – An Heirloom Recipe
I celebrated my very first Hanukkah with my husband’s family nearly two and a half decades ago. It was memorable for many reasons, not the least of which were my mother-in-law’s latkes. Until then, the only latkes I had ever eaten were from a tiny deli in Cincinnati, Ohio. On the occasional Saturday when my dad would have a hankering for a corn beef sandwich, he would make the trip across the river to Izzy’s and return with a paper sack bearing sandwiches layered with brined beef tucked between slices of rye. Crispy, oily, oniony latkes, along with sour cream and applesauce, accompanied every sandwich served at Izzy’s. I couldn’t have imagined or known then that latkes would become a yearly ‘event’ in my life; an event that eventually would require me to learn not only the intricacies of frying the perfect latke, but also how to make homemade applesauce. Of the two, the applesauce posed the bigger challenge.
Grandma Ida is my husband’s maternal grandmother. By the time I entered the family her recipe for applesauce had long been famous. I cannot recall how many years passed before I was given the honor of bringing the applesauce to the family’s Hanukkah dinner. I was not intimidated by the task of making applesauce but I was on edge about the reviews it might receive. I have no vivid memories of those reviews or how my applesauce compared to Grandma’s, but it must have been good enough since requests are still coming in all these years later.
I’m not sure if a written copy of Grandma’s recipe ever existed. The first time I made it I called her on the phone and took down extensive notes as she described her process. I treasure my handwritten copy that came about from that conversation. Her recipe, as simple as it is, leaves room for personal interpretation. Early on, I kept pretty much to her instructions. Grandma preferred Granny Smith apples and I have never deviated from that. Her recipe called for granulated sugar and for a very long time I abided by that as well. Then, for a period of time I switched to a combination of granulated and brown sugars. Now I use only brown sugar, preferring the caramel-y note it lends the apples. Cranberries are a much more recent addition, and one I love for the beautiful pink hue they give the sauce. As for cinnamon, I would be banished from the family if I ever omitted that ingredient. How much to add is strictly a personal choice.
With applesauce being such a basic recipe, you might be wondering why I’ve bothered posting it to my blog. I’ve posted it for my daughter Jael. Grandma’s recipe is a treasure to me and it could have easily been lost forever had I not taken the time to write it down. Over the years, I recall many times I have phoned my mom asking her to walk me through one of our treasured family recipes from my childhood. Sometimes a list of ingredients isn’t sufficient, the process is where the true secrets lie.
One of my motivations to begin this blog was to share my passion for baking. The other was to have a place to chronicle recipes for Jael. I realize that although this applesauce does not fit the baking category in the least, it is a recipe that connects her to her past. One day she will want to know what apples I used or how much water should be in the pan as they are brought to a boil. She will see the changes I have made over the years and decide for herself which to keep and which she might want to change to make it her own. I imagine the future when Jael’s children refer to the applesauce she makes as ‘Grandma Mary’s’ and my heart sings. 🙂 Heirloom recipes are more precious than silver and gold, they link one generation to another and keep tradition alive. This one is for you my Sweet Girl!
A side story: After reading my post, Jael reminded me that her first word was ‘applesauce’. I know what you’re thinking. Really, a three syllable word? It was way before she actually began to say words like mama and dada. She wasn’t even a year old yet. I was holding her on my hip as we peered into the refrigerator looking for a snack. I asked her if she wanted some applesauce…over and over again…”applesauce” “applesauce”, repeating the word as mothers do when teaching there child to speak. Shockingly, she baby-talked the word applesauce back to me. I about dropped her on the floor. I looked around hoping someone else was present who could confirm what I had just heard, but I was alone. How I desperately wished there had been a hidden camera in the room.
Applesauce
8 medium Granny Smith apples
1/2 cup cranberries, fresh or frozen
1 large lemon, cut in half
1/2 cup brown sugar, light or dark
1 teaspoon cinnamon
Fill a large pot half way full with cold water. Squeeze the juice from one half of the lemon into the water. Peel, core, and slice the apples into 8 wedges, adding them to the water as you go. Once all the apples have been peeled and sliced, pour most of the water off, leaving about 1 inch of water in the bottom of the pot; this remaining water will become part of the applesauce. Add the cranberries. Cover the pot with a lid and bring the apples to a boil over medium heat. Reduce the heat and keep the apples at a gentle simmer. Check the apples frequently, giving them a good stir, until they begin to break down. This stage can happen rather quickly so keep a close eye. If there seems to be too much water for the amount of apples, use a large spoon to remove some of the extra water. If there is too little water, which would cause the finished sauce to be too thick, add an additional 1/4 cup of hot water at a time to reach the desired consistency. There is no exact science to this step since the size and juiciness of the apples will differ from batch to batch. It is more about sight and feel at this stage, a step to be perfected over time.
At this point, decide if you want a chunkier or smoother sauce. For a chunkier sauce, remove the apples from the heat while chunks still remain. For a smoother sauce, continue to cook until most all the apples have broken down. Use a potato masher or the back of a fork to break up any large pieces of apple.
While the apples are still hot, add the brown sugar, juice from the remaining half of lemon, and the cinnamon. Stir to combine. Taste and adjust the sugar and cinnamon to suit your personal preference, adding more of each if desired. Allow to cool, then store in the refrigerator in an airtight container for up to a week.
Source: Mary Weinberg | Sifting Focus
So I have always made Grandma’s applesauce with refine sugar. How funny! However, now that we have a family member who can’t eat sugar, I sweeten it with honey. I love how Grandma’s recipe morphs.
The addition of honey sounds interesting. I think the next time I make it I will try a little honey for flavor. XX
What a compelling post! Even the most simple of recipes are nuanced by the cooks interpretation. Recording an recipe recited orally is tricky business. Moving hands and facial expressions are magical components of the finished product. Your irresistible writing has done a family recipe proud!
Deb, your comments are always so thoughtful and kind. Although it will not win me accolades for being the most decadent outrageous dessert, this recipe was very important for me to post.
It doesn`t matter if applesauce is a basic recipe, I love finding different versions of recipes. It`s so wonderful how this applesauce has been passed down. I love how you even made your own alteration!
And, it`s completely precious and lovely how you`re doing this for your daughter!
Thanks Lynna. I just made it again this past weekend. Every time I make it it turns out a bit differently, but always soothing to my soul.
I love applesauce and this one sounds awesome!!
Thank you Alicia! I think you would find that it is quite tasty.