German Coffeecakes and Remembering Gee Gee
Oh, the magical powers of flour, sugar, yeast and butter. With my wooden spoon as a wand, and a touch of alchemy, could I conjure up a cake just like Gee Gee’s?
He was articulate in his description. Holding up a thumb and index finger, an inch of space separating the two, ‘There was as much crumble as cake, thicker in the middle, lighter around the edges. The cake was drowned in a pure white glaze. And there was yeast. It was definitely a yeasted coffeecake.’
My dear friend asked begged me to re-create his Gee Gee’s (grandmother’s) coffeecake. Her recipe had long since disappeared, or perhaps she had never written it down, but rather baked from memory, which is where so many great recipes of old are stored.
As I prepared to get busy with his request, we tossed back and forth our shared memories of a bakery we both frequented when we were younger. Coincidently, it was the bakery where my mom worked during many of my childhood years. The place is long gone, but many of the baked goods from that tiny brick and mortar remain my benchmark when describing fine baked goods. It made sense that his favorite pastry was the cinnamon crumb coffeecake, mine, the cheese kuchen. I have never come across another one like it, and much like my friend, I too longed to taste again that cake of my memories.
My first attempt at Gee Gee’s recipe resulted in a fine cake, but it wasn’t quite right. Too much cake and not enough cinnamon crumble. I knew it, and he knew it, but it didn’t stop him from eating the whole thing. Not one to pass up a good baking challenge, I set out again with recipe number two. Remembering a yeasted dough I had made once before, I headed for my copy of Carole Walter’s ‘Great Coffee Cakes, Sticky Buns, Muffins & More. I flipped through the pages to her recipe for Rich Sour Cream Dough. Along the way, I stumbled across her Cheese Kuchen recipe. With a tweak here and there, I believed it just might be the answer to my own coffeecake memories.
The dough recipe makes enough for two cakes, so I decided to make one with cinnamon crumble for my friend, and one with cheese filling for myself. Oohs and aahs filled the kitchen as we savored bites of our respective cakes. ‘This is it! This is Gee Gee’s cake!!’ With flour, sugar, yeast and butter, I was able to paint a culinary portrait of my friend’s grandmother. Who would think that such simple ingredients could bring such delight – for him and for me. Along the way, I too found the kuchen of my memories. A day’s work well done.
This recipe makes two coffeecakes. Make two of the same, or one each of the Cinnamon Crumb and the Cheese Kuchen. If making one of each cake, remember to cut the fillings in half.
Cinnamon Crumb Coffeecake and Cheese Kuchen
Dough
4 tablespoons granulated sugar
1/4 cup warm water (110˚ to 115˚)
1 package active dry yeast
3 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes, slightly firm, but not cold
2 large eggs
1/2 cup sour cream
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1 tablespoon softened butter, for coating the bowl, and brushing top of dough
Rinse a small bowl in hot water to warm it. Add 1 tablespoon of the sugar and the warm water to the bowl. Sprinkle the yeast over the water. Do not stir. Cover the bowl with a saucer and let the mixture stand for 5 minutes. Stir it briefly with a fork, cover again, and let it stand for 2 to 3 minutes, or until bubbly.
In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the 3 cups of flour, remaining 3 tablespoons of sugar, and the salt. Mix on low to combine. Add the slightly firm butter and continue mixing until meal-sized crumbs form, 2 to 4 minutes, depending upon the temperature of the butter.
Using a fork, in a small bowl, mix the eggs, sour cream, and vanilla. Add the sour cream mixture to the flour, along with the dissolved yeast, and mix on low speed until a rough dough is formed. The dough will be soft.
Using one half of the softened butter, lightly butter a medium bowl for storing the dough. Turn the dough into the prepared bowl, smoothing the top with lightly floured hands. Brush the top lightly with the remaining softened butter. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. (This dough may be kept in the refrigerator, tightly covered with plastic wrap, for up to 3 days.)
Preparing to make the cakes:
Remove the dough from the refrigerator 1 to 1 1/2 hours before shaping.
Generously butter two 9-inch round cake pans, or two 9-inch spring form pans and set aside. On a lightly floured work surface, gently knead the dough six to eight times, and shape it into two disks equal in size. With floured hands, press each dough disk into the prepared pans stretching it to completely cover the bottom of the pans. Using your thumb, press the dough against the side of the pans, forcing it up to form a wall about 3/4 inch high and 1/4 inch thick. Be sure to press the dough well into the crease of the pans. If the dough becomes too elastic, let it rest for a few minutes. Pierce each dough ten to twelve times with a fork. Cover the pans and let them rise in a warmish place for 25 to 30 minutes, or until puffy but not doubled.
Position the rack in the lower third of the oven. Heat the oven to 350˚.
While the dough is rising, prepare the Cinnamon Crumble, and or, the Cheese Filling.
Cinnamon Crumble
10 tablespoons butter, melted and cooled
1 3/4 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1/4 cup brown sugar
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon, plus 1 teaspoon for sprinkling on cake before baking
1/2 teaspoon salt
Whisk together the flour, sugars, cinnamon, and salt in a medium bowl. Drizzle the melted butter over the dry ingredients and toss together using a fork.
Glaze for Cinnamon Crumb Coffeecake
1 cup confectioners sugar, sifted
3 to 4 tablespoons whole milk, at room temperature
1/4 teaspoon almond extract, or pure vanilla extract
Pinch of salt
Whisk together all ingredients in a medium bowl until smooth.
Cheese Filling
2 (8-ounce) packages cream cheese, at room temperature
2/3 cup granulated sugar
2 large egg yolks
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
4 tablespoons sour cream
4 teaspoons melted butter
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon freshly grated lemon zest
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon, for sprinkling on cheese filling before baking
In a medium bowl, mix the cream cheese with a wooden spoon until no lumps remain. Gradually blend in the sugar, mixing until very smooth. Stir in the egg yolks, then blend in the flour, sour cream, melted butter, lemon juice, lemon zest, and vanilla extract.
For the Cinnamon Crumb Coffeecake
When the dough is puffy, gently sprinkle one half of the Cinnamon Crumble over each pan of dough. Sprinkle the ground cinnamon equally over each cake.
For the Cheese Kuchen
Gently drop spoonfuls of the cheese filling over the tops of each pan of dough, leaving a 1/2-inch border of dough around the edge. Do not press on the dough. Using a small off-set spatula, gently smooth the filling across the top of each cake. Sprinkle the ground cinnamon equally over each cake.
Bake the cakes for 35 to 40 minutes. Transfer to a cooling rack. Cool for 30 minutes. For the Cinnamon Crumb Coffeecake, drizzle with prepared glaze. Serve gently warm or at room temperature.
Yield: Two 9-inch cakes
Source: Cakes developed by Mary Weinberg | siftingfocus.com
Dough and cheese filling adapted from Carole Walter’s Great Coffee Cakes, Sticky Buns, Muffins, & More
Such a lovely story and an even better coffeecake! Yeasted sweet breads also remind me of my childhood, a blissful post. Happy Thanksgiving Mary!
Thanks Deb! Wishing you a tasty and delightful Thanksgiving as well.
Well done to you! The coffee cakes look super delicious. And I think culinary portraits are the best kind – food says so much about people.
It truly does Nazia! You can get to know a lot about a person if you have the opportunity to observe their family food traditions and their likes and dislikes.
I love how some memories are associated with food. I think you came out with victorious with two beautiful cakes! Both of them look gorgeous.
Thanks Lynna. I can’t wait to make them again. I plan on giving them as gifts at the holidays.
What a beautiful story , I wouldn’t expect any less ! I hear choked up laughter coming from the next room. Need I say more . I really have tall order to fill.
You are ready and up for the challenge. I’m here for you in any way I can help. Let me know how it turns out. XX
Mar – these pictures are gorgeous. I love the lighting and the composition. Really beautiful.
Utterly BEAUTIFUL, Mary! Your pictures (really ‘food portraits’) create such emotion.
Your photos – all of them – and these, too, with the half full pitchen of Milk in the background, butter (used), and the roughness of the board compete with the stars of your blog – your pastry creations.
You know that line guys used when speaking about a certain magazine… “I don’t look at the pictures, I just read the articles”….
Well, I look at the pictures long before I look at the “article” on your blog!
Michele, your comments are as sweet as you are my dear friend. Thanks for your support and kind words. XX
My friends, Brenda and Jim Baker shared the recipes for Gee Gee’s coffee cake and Cheese Kuchen. I made the cheese one and it us the cake my family loved over 45 years ago made by a Cincinnati German bakery. Your recipe will allow me to make each of the six brothers one for Christmas. They will be so happy as your recipe is spot on.
Oh Debbie, I am so glad to hear that. Yes, that cake is the one my entire family has been longing for since our neighborhood German bakery closed many years ago. You have given me a wonderful idea. I too, will make cheese coffeecakes for my siblings this coming holiday. They will be so surprised!
Mary my brothers will be thrilled. Every year they get my homemade goetta, (my Oma’s recipe) and brown bread. Now there will be the addition of your cheese kuchen. It will trigger many happy memories and make this the best Christmas in years. Again thank you and I will be watching your blog for other treasures. God Bless.
Hi Mary, Your German Crumble Coffee Cake looks Delicious! I have a dear friend that talks about his German Mother that would make a German Crumble. They have lost the recipe so I will direct them here! TY Carrie
Thanks Carrie! That’s very ‘sweet’ of you.